CENTCOM Commander visit

General Mattis, the U.S. Central Command Commander, graced us with his presence this week.  He's a 42-year Marine Infantry officer who commands all US military operations in the Middle East from his HQ at MacDill AFB, Tampa, FL.  Part of his brief talk with us was to generally outline and clarify the current conditions in his area of operations and validate our mission in Saudi Arabia.  As he pointed out, Tunisia, Egypt and Libya have experienced roughly the same uprising from their citizens over the last couple of months.  However, only two of those countries armies did not open fire on their citizens while the other did.   The one that did has had no military-to-military relationship with the US.  Egypt and Tunisia, however, have had such a relationship which gives reason to their humane response.  Therefore, it is vital that we continue our strong relationship with Saudi Arabia since the current unrest in the Middle East will only serve to elevate the importance and standing of this kingdom.

On an interesting note, the question was asked of Gen. Mattis - "Will we ever find Bin Laden?"  To which he replied, "We have the kind of people tracking him down that you don't ever want coming after you.  We're gonna find that sonofabitch and kill him.  Isolating him to the point that he cannot coordinate the efforts of his men will never be good enough."  When talking about his supervision of General Petraeus's efforts in Afghanistan he said he has one rule, to give him every thing he says he needs to accomplish the mission.

2-D Dad

  I Skyped with the family last night as we usually do every couple days.  Isabel was grumpy, Jackson was distracted and Paola was losing patience with the both of them.  I tried to infuse some paternal wisdom in conjunction with their mother's guidance, but once again I was reminded of one simple fact: being a 2-dimensional dad sucks. You're not nearly as imposing or viable when you fit on a 15 inch screen.  Sure, I can still send them to their room from thousands of miles away or have an earnest discussion with them about their behavior.  What I can't do is sit next to them, throw my arm around their shoulders and physically convey love and forgiveness.  I can't high five an accomplishment, hug away a disappointment or tickle-monster one of those perfect moments where a bout of silliness collides with a case of the giggles.
  Fortunately for me, my children have an absolutely amazing mother.  She has taken up the slack in everything that I can't be for the kids.  Needless to say, I have plenty to make up for once I return.  And I have more than plenty to be thankful for in the meantime.

Hash

     Below are some pics of the hash I went on yesterday (6 JAN 11).  Apparently, 'hashing' began in the 1920's with a bunch of Brits in Singapore who were avid runners bent on seeking and blazing new trails in the surrounding countryside as a way of physical fitness and social enjoyment.  At some point, possible on the very first hash, alcohol was introduced to this ritual.  Well, with that sort of foundation, it's little wonder that this 'social sport' has grown internationally.  One only has to Google in order to find their local hash club.  I'm told that most hash clubs are a rowdy group of drinkers with a running problem  (this is suggested as the international mantra as well).  But, lucky for me, in a land where alcohol is forbidden, ours is a group that soberly takes to the terrain as only those seeking great views and good company.  I was happy to find both in my first opportunity.

     Not really sure where we ended up in the desert.  I only know it to be about 45 minutes NW of Riyadh.   

 Thought this was a cool pic of a single tree amidst an arid landscape.

 There were three options during the hash to fit the fitness level or intention of all comers: the run, the long walk and the short walk.  Since it was my first, I went with the long walk which was led by a retired British army sergeant major in his 60's who was hell-bent on showcasing his elite condition to the chagrin of many.

 If you look down the ridge line, you'll get a feel for how strung out our group was only about 15 minutes into an hour long stroll.

Making our way back to the parking area seen in the distance.

Lunch at Set Al Sham

So, on our latest bank run we had to deposit some checks and pick-up close to a million in dollars and riyals which came out to be roughly 20 or so 'bricks' of cash.  A brick of cash is 1,000 bills of a certain denomination.  Each brick weighs about 3+ pounds, so you're looking at 60-75 cumbersome pounds.  Well, we realized on the way that we forgot to bring our bag/case to put the bricks in.  So, we asked the branch manager, Bander, if we could borrow one.  He gave us what amounted to a 30 year old duffle bag with no clasp or mechanism by which to seal it.  When we were summoned to receive the cash, they did so in front of the regular customers sitting in the waiting room.  So, there I am holding a raggedy duffle bag while SSG Spann dumbs cash in it in front of about 15 of our newest friends.  

Once we had the big bag 'o cash, we had to wait in Bander's office for the rest of the deposit receipts.  As we are sitting there, some dude in a janitor's jump suit walks casually into the office and starts to pick-up our duffel.  SSG Spann and I both jump up and yell at the guy, sending him scurrying out of the office just as Bander launches into him in Arabic.  Apparently, Bander asked him to get a cart to help us get the bag to the car and the poor guy made the wrong assumption that it would be okay to bring the bag to the cart first rather than the cart to the bag.

Anyway, Bander comes into the office and we start to chit-chat.  Long story short, Bander leads the conversation to religion.  Now I had always heard that it was not cool to broach such subjects with a Muslim when you are obviously not one.  But he brought it up and I didn't want to offend him by shutting down.  Okay, okay...I actually got a little excited to have the chance to argue Christianity over Islam.  The actual details of the next 25 minutes are/were a bit boring but I'll say I had the upperhand in presentation but that's because this is my blog and you weren't there. (Ha ha)

Well, good ole Bander was nice enough by the end of the visit of our last bank run before this one to offer a recommendation of a restaurant owned by a friend of his, Sa'har.  He told us it was a very nice restaurant and that he would have to call ahead for us to 'gain permission' and describe our person and vehicle so the guard at the underground parking garage would let us in.  Turns out, the place was a very nice Syrian restaurant called Set Al Sham.  Here are some pics...

SSG Spann holding the menu.

There was a Caesar salad in the bowl at the top left.  We had mixed grill kabobs.

This was the elevator to the parking garage.  The handrails are inlaid with mother of pearl.

Bahrain Trip

 Gassin' up just outside of Riyadh.

 This is the view for about 3.5 of the 5 hour drive east from Riyadh to the Kingdom of Bahrain, an island  off the coast of Saudi Arabia in the Persian Gulf.

 At about the halfway point we drove by this odd site - an abandoned group of buildings complete with creepy ferris wheel.

 Saw plenty of camels and Bedouin camps enroute as well.

 Crossing the causeway to the Kingdom of Bahrain.  The first bit of land in the distance is the passport/customs station.

 Not sure what this is.  Just thought it made for a cool pic.

 Left to this kingdom, right to that one.

If I didn't tell you, could you guess what restaurant this is?  'Tis the Macaroni Grill.   

 Picture didn't turn out very well, but this is referred to as "American Alley" or "Heart Attack Alley".  Has McD's, DQ, Macaroni Grill, Starbuck's, Pizza Inn, Baskin Robbins, etc.

City Centre mall - very large.  Here's a fun game: see how many abaya-wearin' females you can count (ninja dresses).  I count eleven.  All abayas are black, by the way.  Can't draw attention to yourself with colors or decoration. 

The gang is hagglin' over carpets with store owners Mohammad and Mustafa (yes, it does seem like every male in the Middle East carries one or both of those names).  Some of these carpets were amazing - all hand-stitched and most were a silk and wool combo.  The big one (second from the top of the pile) went for around 1000 Saudi Riyal or about $270.

Caveat to the golf experience

I was just writing an e-mail to my illustrious Aunt Jackie and realized I should probably share a perspective on here that I've come to appreciate.

I had been told before 'deploying' here to Riyadh that I could bring anything from golf clubs to triathlon gear out here.  I didn't do so because it just didn't feel right knowing I was coming here, to the Middle East, to do a job for the U.S. Army in support of stabilizing what we all know is a very volatile region.  If I was going to sacrifice an entire year away from family and friends, I wasn't going to pursue activities that might seem to turn this opportunity into some sort of strange vacation.

But, as usual, my mistake was that my perspective was too inwardly focused and naive given my less-than-adequate understanding of the true mission here.

Now, I have a new and proper perspective.  Engaging in activities such as golf (see pics below) isn't just a chance to unwind here.  It is also an opportunity to show trust and good faith in the host country's intent to modernize and accept religious tolerance.  It's an opportunity to step outside the safety of our compound, shed an ample degree of force protection and rely on the stability of our locale that has been built with and through the Saudi government.

But more importantly, I can now use the excuse that I'm playing with rented clubs rather than my par-producing set at home. ;)

Golf at Dirab / Off-roadin' SW of Riyadh

Dirab Golf Course is SSW of Riyadh.  It is a beautiful (and very long) course.  3 of the 4 par 5's are 583, 605, and 610 yards.  Dan Morris and I certainly didn't win anything during the 2-man scramble, but we finished 5-under, shooting a 95 with a 28 handicap (highest allowed). 

 Dan Morris and I.

That's the clubhouse in the background.

One of the super fast greens tucked into the surrounding terrain.  Notice the guard shack/post on the hill. Since Dirab attracts many Westerners, there are obvious force protection measures in-place around the course.

Dan drove us further W from Dirab after the tournament to checkout these escarpments. 

Part of the venture was to find these very old hand-made camel trails leading up/down the face of the escarpments.

Don't do it, Dan!  For some perspective, that speck in front of Dan's left shin is a large truck (akin to an 18-wheeler) on the ground below.

I was too chicken to stand at the edge like Dan.